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The Aamlicious Thali at Rajdhani, Indira Nagar, Bangalore

Food and Drink

Think of mangoes, and we (at least I) usually think of mango juice, mango shake, aamras, aam panna and mango ice cream – apart from eating the fruit itself. And then of course, there are the pickles made from mango. In my community, that hails from Kerala, we also make something called maanga koottan and mambazha koottan (homework for the day: read up about them on Google). But beyond that, it was difficult for me to imagine the luscious yellow fruit being used in any other preparation. Because I simply didn’t know better.

Taking pity on me, the good folks at Rajdhani, Indira Nagar took me under their wing one afternoon last week and conducted a 2 hour session on the topic ‘The ingenious use of mango in Rajasthani and Gujarati dishes and the fine art of slumbering in the afternoon.’ As I learnt that day, doing well in the first part of this topic automatically meant that you’d do well in the second part too.

Thankfully, the session was fully practical in nature. Corporate Chef Sugata Sengupta kindly explained a little about the dishes he and his team had prepared for lunch that day. And then, even more kindly, he allowed us to get down to business.

He and his team had prepared – hold your breath – 32 items that afternoon. The classical recipes of each of those items had been adapted to accommodate mango in some form or the other. The addition of mango gave a sweet/tangy/slightly sour twist to the dishes, depending upon how exactly it had been used. Interestingly, this blending has been done in such a way that it landed on the palate with ‘stereophonic’ effect – meaning, I could distinctly make out the taste of the original recipe as well as that of the mango. And, because the two blended so beautifully, I could make out a whole new third taste also! I thought this effect was brilliant. Much like the different sound streams come together to create wholesome stereo sound.

The meal started with kesari aam thandai and paanch phoron kairi panna. In farsan (starters), there were mango khandvi, cheezy aam pizza dhokla, kacchey aam nu muthiya, rasila aam paapad samosa and kaala aam paapad potli kachori. Then came chaat, which included Jodhpuri aam dal dhokli, aamras khasta kachori chaat, Bikaneri palak aamras chaat and kairi bhakarwadi chaat.

The mains included ker sangria amboliya, goonda kairi nu saag, kairi samosa ki subzi, Rajasthani kaju aur aam ki sabzi, Marwari kachchi kairi ki biryani, aam pista pulav, dal-bhati-churma, puri-aamras and rotis. I may have missed out a few other dishes.

Somehow, I did not take to the cheesy aam pizza dholka much. Also, the mango jilebi rabri will taste much better if the mango is toned down a little.

All the other dishes were top notch.

The fact that I sat through this entire practical class says a lot about me and about the food. I only have a hazy memory of how I made it back home afterwards. The next thing I know, I wake up in bed at about 5 pm.

I pity some of my friends at the table, who had to head back to office after this pleasurable torture.

If you want to taste these dishes too, head over to Rajdhani sometime soon. Their aamlicious festival (mango food fest) is on. Every day, their thali features 8 or 9 of these mango-based dishes on a rotational basis, in addition to their regular dishes. The festival is on till May 31.

Chef Sengupta said it well when he said ‘We close this food festival the day the first monsoon showers hit Bangalore.’
The staff at Rajdhani looked after us very well. Heartfelt thanks to them for that.

Suresh and Rupa, thank you very much for the invitation to this wonderful meal.

Chef Sugata Sengupta and your team, thank you for all that wonderful food.

#Aamlicious #Rajdhani #KingOfFruits #MangoFruit #MangoFestival #KhandaniRajdhani #KingOfThali #RajdhaniThali #DaawatERajdhani #g2klife

P.S. I was invited to taste this special mango-based summer thali at Rajdhani. I did not pay for this meal. This is an objective review of the food and the experience.

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Windmills Craftworks – Review of a brewpub

Food and Drink

The place is not what I expected. For one, the building looks somewhat monolithic and looks like it houses the headquarters of a company. Stepping into the pub on the 6th floor (or is it the 7th?), I am taken aback for a moment. Spread out in front of me is a large room (perhaps about 3000 sq.ft.) with tables laid out for the most part. Sofas wrapped around the tables provide for cushy seating. At the far end, there is a slightly raised stage, which appears to be a performance space. I can spot mikes, speakers and other paraphernalia used in live performances. A few wires snake across the stage. The lighting is moderate: neither too dim nor too bright. I see that the walls of the room are covered with bookshelves. There are a number of books on architecture, urban planning and space design. There are books on Business/Management too and in one section, pulp fiction. And amidst all this, are the people seated at the tables. There are people drinking at the bar too.

What surprises me the most is the near-hush that prevails in the room. Even on straining my ears, I manage to catch just murmurs and hints of laughter from here and there. Waiters move about silently, depositing drinks and plates of food. Hello! Have I stepped into a pub or a fine-dine restaurant?!

Across the room from me, I see sliding glass doors that lead to a small terrace. Tables have been laid out too; half of them seem to be occupied.

For a few minutes, I try to find labels to succinctly describe this place, but nothing comes to mind. Clearly, my dear fellow, I tell myself, this is unlike any other public house you have been to in Bangalore (or anywhere else for that matter). It seems like they started out building an architect’s office, changed their mind mid-way to make it a reading room, suddenly decided to allow wining & dining here and finally, thought it a great after-thought to hold live performances here! And so you have a look that is very sophisticated kitsch.

But it is definitely a look that works.

The décor and mood of Windmills Craftworks suggest a large, wood-lined smoking room in a British county manor. Only, it happens to be in Whitefield instead. After a few minutes of mental adjustment, I decide that I like this place. It just takes me some time to get used to the low decibel levels. Why isn’t the drinking crowd raucous like in other bars, I can’t help wondering. Must have something to do with the rich wood panelling and the bookshelves, I suppose.

When I emerge from my rumination, I find that my wife has wisely seated herself at a table on the terrace. This section is starkly different from the room. For one, this is open-to-air. Secondly, the space is punctuated by a number of plants, giving it a lush look. Small water bodies have been carved out on the floor next to the pathways. At one end of the terrace, I can see the microbrewery encased by a glass wall. The terrace is not large, but it is lovely.

Our table gives us a reasonably good view. In one sweep of the eye, we can take in the IT complex located across the road, a park and several trees. And then, there are the buildings under construction, their tower cranes eerily silhouetted against the darkening sky. A cool breeze is blowing. Since they can’t smoke indoors, people keep coming out to the deck for a few drags before returning to their tables.

We are thirsty and place our first orders on a wi-fi enabled tab (an impressive touch that makes for smooth and efficient ordering). We first ask for the Hefeweizen (for me) and Golden Ale (for the wife). She wants to begin with something very light; so, the Golden Ale is the obvious choice. Its floral character stands out, while the base is crisp and refreshing. My Hefe is a wheat beer with distinct notes of clove and banana. I love how they hit my palate together, producing a wonderful effect.

Finishing this, the wife wants to have a cocktail. So, she orders an Asian Mary, while I have their summer special mango-infused beer (I forget the name). While my beer is interesting, the taste of mango is too faint. It is supplanted by the strong, sour notes of orange. I find this strange, because the name led me to expect more mango in it. The beer lacks the light, summery freshness I had expected. But a few pulls later, I say what the heck and make peace with it. I realise it is an acquired taste and even begin to like it. My wife, on the other hand, finds it impossible to make peace with her drink. The cocktail she has been handed tastes like vegetable juice. The flavour of vodka is buried somewhere deep under several leaves, shoots and capsicum juice. She is having to wade through a mini forest to get to the alcohol! We promptly give our feedback to Suraj, who is serving us, and he graciously agrees to spike the drink with more vodka. When it comes back, it is definitely better, but the strong taste of leaves doesn’t go away. Overall, a disappointing concoction.

After these are finished, we split a Stout (which is just as stout as Stout should be) and another Hefeweizen between us. Both go down well.

We don’t feel like eating much; it is a ‘drinking’ kind of evening. So, a plate of Nachos (topped with mayonnaise, salsa sauce and herbs), some Ragatoni Pasta and Honey Chilli Potatoes are all that we have. The food is very good, though the vegetarian entries in the menu are limited. The non-veg section is expansive, which is good.

Much like the beer, our conversation flows smoothly for the next couple of hours. The deck is perfect for the night. Service is silent and efficient. Inspite of the Friday-evening crowd, the serving staff manages to get our orders fairly quickly. They smile a lot and are easy to converse with. I like that. The outdoor ambience of the deck definitely helps enhance our mood.

And oh, there is the occasion too. You see, it is our twelfth wedding anniversary!
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In sum: Windmills Craftworks in Whitefield-Bangalore is a great place for a quiet drink or five, especially if you love beer. Their Golden Ale, Hefeweizen and Stout are very good. The place pleases on food, beer, service and ambience. Prior reservation is recommended, because it is a popular place that fills up soon. If you go in the evening, try to snag a table on the deck. Just remember that the mood is more muted than that of a typical pub. And boy, they have to work on their cocktails!

MY RATING

Food: 3.5/5 (good food, but more veg options needed)

Beer: 4/5

Cocktail (Asian Mary): 3/5

Service: 4/5

Ambience: 4/5 for the deck; 3.5/5 for the indoor section.

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Will Chumki turn the tables on her luck?

Parenting

Lesley Biswas’ story pulls the reader into the universe of its characters. It will take your child on a happy ride. _____________________________________________________________________________

Have you been a little child who was teased and taunted by others? Have you had to bear the burden and the deep anguish that comes from being labelled ugly, gawky, awkward, idiot and other such adjectives? Thankfully, I haven’t. But, I have known children in my circle who were branded all this and more. One or two of these children were my close friends too. I have seen the pain caused to them by these insults. Aside from the very meanness of the abuse, what hurt even more was the fact that it was often unfounded. Nobody knew why a child was being called this or that, but everybody would just join in the chorus just for the fun of it (not surprising, because children unthinkingly make up the meanest herds). As adults, such situations may not bother us much. But looking back, I can see anew how damaging it must have been for my little friends back then!

Something similar happens with little Chumki in Unlucky Chumki. Branded ‘unlucky’, ‘a girl with an evil tongue’ and ‘a sorceress’, the people of her village give her a wide berth. For poor Chumki, this means she has hardly any friends. To add to this, her Dadi (grandma) blames her for anything that goes wrong. Her mischievous brother Aki pours oil into the fire by spreading rumours about her.

Imagine her life! Crushed by sorrow, she is scared and diffident most of the time.

One day, Aki catches Chumki in an embarrassing situation. In return for his silence, he enlists her help in a prank he wants to play on the local baddie Kanti Kaka. Thus begins a rollicking adventure for the children. With the help of their friends, Aki and Chumki plan a few shocks for Kanti Kaka. Why do they want to confront him thus? What shocks do they spring on him? What happens ultimately? Is Chumki able to shrug off her dubious reputation and live a happy life? The rest of the story reveals answers to these questions. As the story races to its climax, you feel yourself pulled deeper and deeper into the plot.

Even as Unlucky Chumki unfolds as an easy read, it holds out several thought-provoking moments for its reader. We see the beauty of sibling love, the innocence of a little girl and the power of friendship, as much as we feel the corrosive effect of superstitions.

Unlucky Chumki touches a chord deep down. The pages flip themselves as you breeze through the story. Lesley’s narration breathes life into the characters and situations, and is complemented wonderfully by the sharp, evocative illustrations (fine work by Anupama Ajinkya Apte). The presence of a motley set of characters like Dadi, a naughty brother, a village baddie and lots of ripe, luscious mangoes greatly enlivens the tale. Lesley’s style brings a sense of immediacy to the story. For instance, when Aki and his friends are gambolling in the muddy stream, I find myself joining them. When Dadi lifts her stick, I can see myself wincing in anticipation of what’s to come. My heart lurches when Kanti Kaka bellowes at the children. And when Chumki’s face wilts in sorrow, I feel my heart wrench.

In sum, Unlucky Chumki is a delightful, sensorial read. It did not just make my son sit engrossed. It made me feel like a 10 year old again. And therein lies the true triumph of this book.

Buy it for your child. He/she will love you all the more for it.

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Travel Diaries with Chef Ritwik – a brief review of a food pop-up

Travel and Places

One of the things I cherish when I travel is the local food I find there. Many of you may do the same. This is one of the reasons we are increasingly seeking out homestays and smaller guest houses, preferring to give the regular hotels a miss.

Chef Ritwik Sarkar did just that sometime back, when he travelled all over Kerala and Coorg. Which is why he is a man after my heart. During those trips, he learnt a lot of recipes from the regional cuisines and took copious notes. ‘Many Malayalis and Coorgis allowed me to enter their kitchens and learn how to cook their traditional dishes. That was a great feeling.’ says Ritwik.

All those lessons have translated into a very interesting, limited-edition menu at Café Felix. ‘Chef Ritwik’s Travel Diaries’ is a food pop-up being dished out until April 15.

The pop-up menu has cocktails, soups, appetisers, entrees and desserts. Every offering on the menu draws its inspiration from Keralan and Coorgi cuisine, but has a global touch added to it. For instance, the chakka curry (jackfruit curry) is made Malabar-style, but tossed with homemade fettuccine and shitake mushrooms. What sounds like an unlikely combination is actually a delight when it lands on the palate.

Inspite of adding a twist to every dish, Chef Ritwik has managed to keep the taste authentic and close to the native version. And that, to my mind, is his true triumph.

This is what I had:

Southern Somras – dark rum, orange liqueur, curry leaves, jaggery, apple juice and tamarind water.

Alleppey Apple – whiskey, apple juice, green apple juice, spiced maple syrup, Assam tea, fresh apple chunks, cloves and cinnamon.

The effect of the spiced maple syrup is an utter delight.

Jackfruit cutlets – I love jackfruit in any form, and totally loved these cutlets, which were fried just right and served with raw mango & jaggery chutney.

Sweet potato & green pepper gnocchi – pumpkin erissery with baby spinach and picked radish.

Chakka curry with homemade fettuccine – as described earlier.

Vegetable ishtu – ‘Ishtu’ is how any Malayali worth his coconut oil pronounces ‘stew’.

While it is usually had with appams, Ritwik servers it with a nutty pilaf. I didn’t realise how good this combination would taste until I spooned myself the first mouthful of ishtu and the rice. The caramelised onions add a nice crunch to the pilaf.

Kerala Sundae – And towards the end of my meal, Ritwik delivers his knock-out punch. Three balls of vanilla ice cream arrive in a plate. I take a spoonful from each and realise that one has been stuffed with coconut, another with jaggery and the third, with banana.

Bits of waffle, banana chips and strips of jackfruit complete this dessert bomb.

The acronym ‘OMG’ is reserved for experiences like this one.

Now, quickly look at the photos below, call your foodie buddies or family and head over to Cafe Felix at 1 MG Mall. The pop-up is on only till April 15,2018.

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Kapu – a delightful beach in South India

Travel and Places

About 15 kms south of Udupi (on the way to Mangalore) lies a delightful strip of sand and surf called Kapu.

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I had come to Udupi to meet my nephew, who studies at the Manipal Institute of Technology. One morning during my two-day stay there, I found myself free. My nephew would be in class till the afternoon, after which he would meet me. On a sudden whim, I decided to visit one of the beaches dotting the beautiful coastline of Dakshin Kannada (meaning, South Karnataka). After some serious thought (because there is an overdose of options), I plumped for Kapu beach (some locals call it Kaap). Kapu was most convenient for a half-day trip, because it is situated just 15 kms from the town of Udupi where I was shacked up. Buses were frequent. I could visit the beach and be back in time to meet my nephew.

After a breakfast of medu vada and dosa, accompanied by coconut chutney and sambar, I boarded an ‘express’ bus to Mangalore. Unlike regular buses, express buses take the highway to Mangalore and do not get into country roads. They are therefore much faster than their ordinary cousins. About 25 minutes later, I was deposited at the Kapu junction on the same highway. The ticket cost me all of Rs. 18. On the way, I was treated to delightful vistas of coconut palms and arecanut trees, old-style houses with brown tiled roofs, ponds and lagoons and small shops lining the highway. The landscape here is very similar to that of Kerala, since Dakshin Kannada lies just north of Kerala along the same coastline. Even the cuisine (especially the seafood dishes) are prepared and eaten the same way as in Kerala.

Disembarking from the bus at Kapu junction, I took an auto to Kapu beach. The ride cost me Rs. 30/- . Autos have fixed fares from the junction to different places in the area. Bargaining is not of much use, since the auto drivers operate as a union. Passing through shaded country roads with houses on either side (and even the odd motor garage), I reached the beach in 5 minutes.

Standing at the entrance to the beach, I took in the entire stretch in one glance. Close by to my right at one end of the beach stood the lighthouse, a somewhat grim and lonely apparition rising into the sky. To my left, the sandy strip curved a long way until it ran into a clump of boulders that marked the other end of the beach. A concrete pathway had been built along the inner edge of the beach and stone benches had been built along this. Through the intense haze of the summer morning, I could see that the beach was deserted. There must have been just a dozen people scattered along its entire length. Some of them were lounging on the benches in the shade of coconut trees (understandable, given the heat), but surprisingly, some other were frolicking in the rushing waters. But then, I remembered that while even during the height of summer, the sea water is cool.

After standing in the water myself for a few minutes, I started walking towards the lighthouse. At some distance into the sea, I could see a lone fishing boat bobbing in the waves. This fisherman must have come late to the fishing party, I speculate idly. Or maybe, he just had a refreshing beer and gone off to sleep. The instant this thought flashed through my mind, I yearned for a bottle of cold beer myself. My thirst for beer was so bad in that instant, that the hair on my arms bristled and I could clearly feel the parched bottom of my throat.

I had to climb up three flights of stairs to reach the base of the lighthouse (because it was perched on top of a boulder). I saw to my disappointment that it was closed. I could not spot the caretaker either. It wondered if it is an abandoned lighthouse. Or maybe it would open only at night, when ships and boats had to be guided. Climbing to the top of lighthouses and gazing out in all directions is something I love doing. I have done it in several places, like Chennai, Kannur and Daman.

Not finding anybody to ask, I plonked myself down in the shade of the tall structure. This vantage point gave me a different perspective of the whole area. To my right, I saw another beach stretching out into the distance. A few fishing boats were parked on the sand and a few mesh nets spread out next to them. The fishermen will claim them again before dawn the next day, when they put out to sea in search of fish. On another side, a shallow stretch of backwater flowed past to form a lagoon. Far away into the sea, I could make out a few dots. I assumed them to be cruise or cargo ships. The breeze was mild. It was all very peaceful and life seemed very good from my perch. It seemed better still, when, a moment later, I remembered that I was lazing on a beach on a weekday.

I did want to get into the water and splash around a bit, but the sun was too harsh for that. Instead, I had a super-refreshing tender coconut and caught a bus back to Udupi.

I am going to return to the Udupi belt during the monsoon this year, when this whole belt will be lush and wet. I just can’t for that.

The vitals

The fastest and cheapest way to reach Kapu is to take an Express bus from the private bus stand, which is locally known as service bus stand also. The bus ride to Kapu junction on the highway takes about 20 minutes and costs Rs. From the highway, take an auto to the beach. This ride cost me Rs. 30/- one way in March 2018.
The waves in the beach are wild; so, tread carefully in the waters. I did not see a lifeguard around.
This is a relatively unspoilt beach. . The local village council & citizens take pains to keep the beach clean. Let us help them keep it that way. Look for trash bins to dump your trash in. Alternatively, put your trash in your bag and bring it back to your hotel to dump.
There are no resorts or hotels close to the beach. Thank God for that.
For accommodation, Udupi is the nearest town. It will make sense for you to stay there, also because Udupi has other attractions, and is a bus & rail hub.
Summer (I am talking temperature in the high thirties & extreme humidity) is from March to early June here, after which the monsoon sets in. The monsoon is a magical time to visit this place in. Failing that, you could go anytime between November and February.
If you keep about a week, you can cover a few lovely places in the Dakshin Kannada belt.
Most people here have a traditional mindset and lifestyle; so, covering up adequately and not being boisterously Bohemian would be a very good idea.
Sample the seafood and vegetarian food, both of which are yummy in these parts. In fact, a number of people have migrated from Udupi to various parts of India and set up vegetarian restaurants. These restaurants are famously called Udupi restaurants, especially in Chennai, Pune and Mumbai.

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5 exciting watering holes in Bengaluru

Travel and Places

For a while, it looked like the pubbing capital of India had lost its froth. Many of the charming, old pubs that gave the city its high through the nineties had shut down. And the new ones failed to make an impact. It looked like an entire era had ended, leaving behind only a cocktail of memories.

Things though have begun to change in recent times. The last few years has seen several new and distinctive watering holes opening, with a vibe and spirit that hark back to glory days of the 1990s. While some of them offer just the regular fare, others are experimenting, both with food and drink. Here’s our pick of the best new bars in the city.

Bootlegger

80 Feet Road, Indiranagar

Bootlegger 4

Casual vibes, music on moderate volume and the use of brick and dark wood in generous doses characterise this bar. The intent is to create a throwback to the days of Prohibition in the US (in the 1920s) when tipplers had to take recourse to dive bars and speakeasies to slake their thirst. Off-white ropes strung across walls and the ceiling create an interesting effect. The prices are affordable and the music, groovy. The crowd here is mostly young. Aside from the regular pub fair, the menu has an excellent selection of house cocktails. This is a no-airs place, great for hanging out with friends.

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High Ultra Lounge

Sheraton Grand Bangalore Hotel, Brigade Gateway

The Asian influence at High Ultra is unmistakable. So is the inclination to party, going by the good dance floor and excellent DJs in attendance. Perched at a stunning height of 421 feet, it claims to be South India’s highest watering hole. The place is huge but has been innovatively split up into different zones. You can choose from the enclosed bar, the more private party area and the open-to-sky deck. The décor is adventurous, with contrasting influences like a fluid resin wall, expansive glass, a vertical garden, white mesh furniture and water bodies creating an interesting mood. Celebrity chef Myo Aung’s menu of authentic Pan-Asian food stands out.

Bang, Ritz-Carlton

Residency Road

This rooftop bar cum lounge at the Ritz-Carlton ticks all the boxes – warm customer-service, superb cocktails, delectable food, mood lighting and great views. The excellent wine list is another definite plus. It is a place that puts you at ease immediately and pampers you.

If you want to have a quiet time with your companion(s), go on a weekday evening. On weekends the crowd is boisterous and definitely in a mood to party. Which is probably why Chris Gayle comes here when he is in town and spins a few tracks along with the house DJ.

ALSO SEE Where to eat, drink and play this (long) weekend

The open space offers a superb view of central Bangalore, complete with treetops, tall buildings, neon signs and the cricket stadium.

Sly Granny

12th Main Road, Indiranagar

This one is kitschy in an endearing way. The decor featuring an assorted mix of furniture, books and other knick-knacks reminds you of home. The retro art on the wall is a nice touch. The seamless mix of formal and informal influences in décor, the variety on the menu (both food and drink) and the fact that a cross-section of people patronises the place, makes it difficult to categorise Sly Granny. No wonder it has chosen to call itself a community house.

There are four seating spaces spread over two levels, the style and décor ranging from club to informal. The terrace (with a retractable roof) is a great place to spend a quiet afternoon or a pleasant night. The food menu is drawn from all over the world and includes a good selection of tapas. All cocktails are made using natural ingredients.

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Café Felix and Terrace Bar

1MG-Lido Mall, Trinity Circle

For a place that’s just a couple of months old, Felix has done very well. Its open-plan layout and easy-on-the-eye décor are a pleasant change from the heavy décor that is the norm in bars. And, there is plenty of natural light. Add to this, its location in 1MG, a premium mall explains the sizeable crowd throughout the day here. The cocktails are fabulous, while the food has fresh interpretations of several mainstream dishes. The fact that Chef Nitin Kulkarni of Indigo Restaurant (Mumbai) fame has put together the menu helps.

You could sit on the lower level during the day and move up to the terrace bar in the evening. The central Bangalore view enhances the experience.

The magic of Malabar

Travel and Places

Though few people know this, the northern part of Kerala has as much to offer a traveler as its southern counterpart. Ask anybody about Kerala, and you are likely to hear about its backwaters and houseboats, its swaying palms, its beaches (especially Kovalam) and the dance form of Kathakali. Someone slightly more knowledgeable about the place would probably tell you about Fort Kochi and its old-world ambience (including Jew Street, which is the last remnant of a once-strong sub-culture of Kerala), the Ona Sadya (a traditional feast served during the festival of Onam) and the annual boat races of Alleppey. Over the years however, few visitors to Kerala have bothered to look at what lies North of Kochi.

Photo by: Sandeep Gangadharan, Creative Commons Attribution Licence

You’d be amazed at all Malabar has to offer—mountains, rivers, untouched beaches, forts, old-world towns, bazaars, museums, temples—there’s something here for everyone. Malabar is the region that starts from Malappuram (just north of Palakkad) and stretches right up to the northern-most tip of Kerala. A princely state till 1956, this is where Vasco da Gama first set foot in India in the 15th century, thereby laying the foundation for the globalisation of Kerala. Through the centuries, commerce has always flourished in the region, but when it comes to tourism, Malabar has always eluded tourists. The next time you think of visiting Kerala, add Malabar to your itinerary, and you’ll come away charmed.

Kannur

Photo by: freebird (bobinson|ബോബിന്‍സണ്), Creative Commons Attribution Licence

Kannur was the seat of the Kolathiri rajas and the Arakkal dynasty. The main attractions here are its beautiful beaches, temples dedicated to Muthappan (Lord Shiva in his incarnation as a hunter) and the enthralling dance form of theyyam. Angelo Fort, a couple of kilometers from the centre of town, is a legacy of Kannur’s earliest foreign settlers, the Portuguese. The sprawling fort is rather well-maintained and offers a stunning view of the sea from its ramparts. Out of the beaches, the beaches of Muzhappilangad and Thottada are secluded and definitely worth a visit. Visit a handloom weaving centre for some great bargains, and if you’re culturally inclined, take in a theyyam dance performance at a local Muthappan kaavu. Round off your stay in Kannur with a visit to the Arakkal Museum, which is a repository of royal possessions from the days of the Arakkal Dynasty.

Kozhikode

Photo by: Shehal Joseph, Creative Commons Attribution Licence

For most tourists, Kozhikode is a jump-off point on the way to Wayanad, or a snacking halt during the long haul over the mountains to Mysore or Bangalore. But pause a while and look around, and you will see that Kozhikode throws up a mélange of flavours. For centuries, it has been the bustling capital of commerce in Malabar, and is one of the oldest ports in Kerala. The older sections of the city are known for their bazaars and wholesale markets—you can buy a bewildering variety of spices here at extremely reasonable prices—and the city is dotted with beaches like the Kappad beach (the exact spot where Vasco Da Gama landed in Kerala), Kozhikode beach and Payyoli beach. When you have had your fill of the sea, head over to the bountiful hills for a dose of trekking and a bath in the Tusharagiri Falls. Sightseeing aside, Kozhikode is a great place for foodies—head to Hotel Paragon on Kannur Road for some excellent Malabar biryani, appam and kadala curry—and indulge your sweet tooth with some delicious Kozhikode halwa.

Bekal Fort

Photo by: Renjith Sasidharan, Creative Commons Attribution Licence

Between the towns of Kannur and Kasaragod lies Bekal Fort. Around 300 years old, it looks like a giant key-hole when seen from above. Abutting the Arabian Sea, it stands like a proud sentinel—which indeed it was in the olden days—guarding the city from marauders approaching from the sea. Thankfully, it has been well-preserved, and exudes oodles of atmosphere. You can see the tall observation towers, from where huge cannons used to be fired during battles.

Nilambur

Photo by: Dhruvaraj S, Creative Commons Attribution Licence

Nilambur is practically hidden from the eyes of the world. Situated off the trunk route, it is a charming little town with an undulating terrain. Though its tree cover has reduced over the decades, it is still green enough to send you into a trance. Teak plantations abound, and so do old mansions. You can find the oldest teak plantation in the world—called Conolly’s plot—here, and there’s even a teak museum on the premises. In Keralan history, Nilambur has always been known for its kovilakams (stately manors that were once the residences of princely families of yore). Built according to traditional norms of architecture, kovilakams are beautiful structures of wood and laterite, with inner courtyards, intricate etchings on the ceilings, and extensive slat work. The forests of Nilambur are home to a number of elephants, and trekking along the elephant corridors is a delight. There’s a large variety of accommodation to choose from, although you should plump for the homestays—which offer a good combination of beautiful architecture, old-world hospitality, solitude and good food.

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Bengaluru to Agumbe: Rains and akka’s abode

Travel and Places

A village enveloped in thick, white fog, the monsoon, and memories of ‘Malgudi Days’.

This story first appeared in Mint on Aug 26, 2016 under the section ‘Weekend Vacations’.

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The Jogigundi Falls in Agumbe. Photo: Ganesh Vancheeswaran

I stepped off the bus and walked right into a white wall. Turning around, I saw the white wall creeping up behind me. It took a few seconds for my dazed mind to realize that it was actually thick fog. Almost animate, it was on the prowl, gliding without warning, and wrapping itself around the entire village.

A friend and I were in the hilly hamlet of Agumbe in the Western Ghats. An overnight bus journey from Bengaluru had brought us here for a weekend getaway to savour the magic of the monsoon. After all, Agumbe is one of the wettest places in India.

We had to trudge only 200m to Kasturi akka’s house (akka means elder sister in Kannada) from the bus stand. Locally known as Dodda Mane (big house in Kannada), it’s a village landmark.

Akka’s family has been giving sanctuary to weary travellers for 45 years, essentially converting Dodda Mane into a home stay much before the word started occupying an exalted position in the hospitality industry in India. This two-storeyed, traditional Malnad house, built with teak wood and stone, is more than 125 years old. Thick wooden columns line the front court; beyond it lies a central courtyard with potted plants circling it. From there, stout doors lead to the bedrooms and the kitchen.

Despite its rambling spread, there is a curious charm about it.

Akka’s son showed us to the rooms and dormitory on the first floor. The wooden stairs creaked under our feet. The sound was enough for the dame of the house to holler to ensure that her guests were okay and tell us that we could join her in the kitchen if we liked.

The kitchen had an old-fashioned brick stove, with large cucumbers hung above it to dry. At the corner of a large vintage table sat akka. The introductions happened over breakfast.

The first day was reserved for a trek to the Jogigundi Waterfalls, about 4km away. We logged a kilometre on the paved road before veering on to a forest trail. The slushy dirt path, with small, slippery rocks, put us to the test. The tall trees made a thick canopy above our heads and slim streams formed temporary capillaries around them. Thankfully, it had stopped raining.

The silence of the forest was punctuated only by the call of crickets and cicadas. We were about an hour into the trek when we heard a rising roar, an indication that we were nearing the waterfall. Stepping over fallen logs and walking down mossy stone steps, we parted the thick foliage to emerge at the base of the waterfall.

The Malapahaari river was rushing thunderously over boulders. It emerged from a cave-like formation, flowing down in a long trail over a series of rocks. We got as close as we could to the water, feeling the misty spray on our faces.

A couple of hours later, we headed back—and relaxed in the courtyard of Dodda Mane. Dinner that night was an excellent Malnad-style repast—high on vegetables and low on masala (spices) and oil.

There were no arguments about whether the next day should be dedicated to akka’s stories and a generous supply of kashaya (a herbal concoction). We decided to forgo the trip to Sirimane Falls (38km away) and the temple town of Sringeri (29km away). And over several cups of kashaya, akka and her family recalled the days when a few shows of the TV serial Malgudi Days had been shot in that very house.

By noon, the monsoon was living up to its promise, and fat drops of rain were exploding again on the roof of the house. The downpour came as a tonic, and we decided to take a short ride to an ancient Jain temple (19km).

We climbed the steps to the top of the temple and walked to a rocky outcrop at the rear. Volunteering to get slammed by the wind, we looked out at the outrageously green valley, punctuated by capillaries of freshly created streams.

It didn’t take long, of course, for the fog to blot out the scene.

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Temple Tales

Travel and Places

The Brihadeeswarar Temple in Thanjavur is a jewel among temples. Take an early morning turn and discover a whole millennium of history hidden in its portals.

This story first appeared in Trujetter magazine in their September 2016 issue.

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In the gentle light of early morning, the gopuram shines like burnished gold. I stand across the road from it and simply gazed at it. It feels exceedingly good to be in Thanjavur because of the town’s welcoming vibes. As I was looking around, I heard a question in Tamil “Where do you want to go, sir?” A spry, middle-aged gentlemen stopped his moped right next to me. “Periya kovil,” (the big temple) I said. “Vaanga, okkarunga. Naan konda vidaren,” was his smiling response (“Come, I will take you there.”) I thanked him and clambered on. A fiveminute ride later, I was deposited opposite the main entrance to the Brihadeeswarar Temple (which the locals have simplified to ‘big temple’).

The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. There is a large square forecourt surrounded by the walls of the temple. In the centre of this forecourt is a large square slab of stone, on which stands the temple. There is a neat sense of proportion and symmetry in the complex. At this hour, there are not more than a dozen others who have come to see this wonder. The silence is punctuated by bird calls and the whisper of a mild, cool breeze.

I heard a voice behind me and in no time a guide appeared from nowhere. For the hundredth time, I marvel at how guides all over the world, manage to sidle up to you quietly and catch you unawares. Selvam was welldressed with a mild look on his face. His card proclaimed him to be a Government-certified guide to the temple. As we start walking towards the sanctum sanctorum, Selvam takes up a well-rehearsed narrative about the temple.

Amazing Architecture

Raja Raja – I, the great Chola Emperor who ruled Thanjavur during the turn of the first millennium, broke a few architectural canons when he had this masterpiece of a temple built. Selvam informed that this is one of those rare temples in which the Vimana (the tower that rises over the sanctum) is taller than the Gopuram (the ornate tower at the entrance to the temple). Also, rather than build the temple outside-in, the master artisans built it inside-out. In other words, they built the siva lingam first, then built the temple tower over it and finally, added the various cloisters surrounding the sanctum sanctorum. The statue of Nandi the bull, the bali peedam (sacrificial alter) and the dhwaja sthambham (flag pole) were all built later.

The ceilings bear several frescoes in colours that have Selvam mentioned that the artisans used vegetable dyes to paint the murals. The outer walls of the sanctum contain a detailed commentary on the life and times of the Cholas, dwelling on social customs. I tried my best to read the lines, but the script was in ancient Tamil.

The temple is a wondrous example of how scale and intricacy of architecture need not come at the cost of visual harmony. Not one stone, sculpture, pillar or pathway in the temple seems out of proportion. UNESCO has done itself a favour by bestowing the label of World Heritage Site to this temple complex. remained vibrant to this day.

The Magic of Nine

A number of things in the temple are in multiples of nine, because apparently, Raja Raja (whose real name was Arulmozhivarman) believed nine was a lucky number. The vimana for instance, is 216 feet tall. And then, there are 108 small nandis erected around the temple complex. His empire was stretched all the way from Kalinga (today’s Odisha) to Ceylon (Sri Lanka) at one point in time. He was one of the first Indian rulers to annex neighbouring countries, thereby introducing Tamil culture to those faraway lands.

For a long time, the Brihadeeswarar Temple played host to royal ceremonies in the kingdom. Dance performances were held often, especially when dignitaries from other kingdoms came visiting. The splendid natural acoustics of the temple and its beautiful openair setting provide a perfect background to music and dance performances. Even today, such performances are held once in a while. Interestingly, daily rituals and ceremonies are performed in this temple even today, which is somewhat uncommon among temples of this period. The entire complex is well-preserved, which is more than what you can say about most other monuments in our country.

I glance at my watch to see that three hours had flown past. The sun was high up as I exited the temple. The food cart on the pavement is still doing brisk business, but I am not tempted by the fare, being thoroughly satiated by the sensory feast I have just gorged on. I thanked Selvam for sharing his knowledge with me and left.

From the unique nodding dolls (Thalayatti bommai, as they are called) to the Tanjore paintings, from the temples along the Kaveri river to the legacy of different dynasties of rulers, Thanjavur is a town of many pasts and many stories. It has had a glorious history as the seat of a mighty lineage of emperors and as the centre of Tamil art and culture. In the midst of all this, the Big Temple continues to have a towering presence, effortlessly linking the past to the present.

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9 lovely breakfasts to have in Bengaluru

Travel and Places

They make good mornings better.

This story first appeared in Conde Nast Traveller on August 3, 2016.

(https://www.cntraveller.in/story/9-great-breakfasts-to-have-in-bengaluru/#s-custmuffets-and-tuffets-koramangala)

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BREAKFAST

Photo source: Getty Images

Bengaluru takes its first meal of the day very seriously. For a city traditionally known for its darshinis—small, stand-up eateries—the foodscape has changed radically over the past few years to accommodate the ever-changing mix of the populace. But in a place where breakfast is easy to find, where do you find a great breakfast? That’s where this list comes in:

Muffets and Tuffets, Koramangala

This charming little restaurant is set in a small bungalow. You can sit in the air-conditioned section inside or take a table on the small patch of grass outside.

The menu has continental and British fare and includes a mean breakfast platter. With a large waffle with maple syrup, sausages, perfectly-fried hash browns, a grilled tomato, slices of brown bread, eggs made your way and a bowl of baked beans, this is a meal you’d work through slowly.
Recommended: The breakfast platters.

M&T breakfast

Raghavendra Stores, Malleswaram railway station

This traditional, unpretentious joint serves cheap and authentic south Indian Brahmin food. They make very few dishes, but make them exceedingly well. Idli, vada, shavige bhath, khara bhath, bisibele bhath, kesari bhath—that’s the long and short of their menu. And yet, you have people coming from across town to dig into this food. The idlis are soft and well-rounded. The crunchy vadasare pepped up by bits of green chilly, coconut and pepper stuffed into them. And finally, this is one of the few places in town that serve shevige bhat, a spicy dish made of rice vermicelli with seasoning.
Recommended: Idli vada and shevige bhath

Raghavendra Stores idli-vada 1

Airlines Hotel, Off Lavelle Road

How would you like to breakfast with birds, in the shade of a large, decades-old tree? Bangaloreans have been doing just that for half a century at the Airlines Hotel. A venerated institution on the city’s foodscape, Airlines is a throwback to a more leisurely era. Most things about the place have remained unchanged over the years, including the delicious fare. You can linger over your food before chasing it down with superb filter coffee, served in thick-bottomed glasses that have all but vanished from other restaurants here.
Recommended: Akki roti, rava idli, filter coffee

Airlines Hotel masala dosa 1

South Indies, Indira Nagar

If you want to breakfast like a king, head over to South Indies. Here, you get delicacies from all south Indian regions under one roof, in a fine-dining ambience. The lavish breakfast buffet is an excellent repast, complete with dessert.

Suryawanshi, Indira Nagar

Maharashtrian food is a rarity in Bengaluru, despite the sizeable Marathi population. For those who love this kind of food, Suryawanshi comes as a boon. Its menu packs in the best of the state, albeit with a Kolhapuri bias. In a city awash with chutney and sambar, Suryawanshi helps you start your day with missal pav, kanda poha, keema pav, sabudana vada, shrikhand, aamras and sol kadi.
Recommended: Sabudana vada, misal pav

suryawanshi missal pav 3

Kota Kachori, Koramangala

If your idea of a super breakfast is samosa, kachori and chole bhature, Kota Kachori is where you want to go. This joint makes wonderful Indori poha, aloo-pyaz kachoris, chole bhature and parathas. The décor is sparse putting the focus purely on the food.
Recommended: Aloo-pyaaz kachori, poha

kota kachori - chholey bhature 3

Ants, Indira Nagar

Take a roomy bungalow in a tree-lined street, deck it with taste, add a superb continental menu and voila! You have a restaurant with a long queue of patrons straining to enter and reluctant to exit. And did we tell you that this cafe has a store attached, one that sells authentic, hand-crafted stuff from northeast India?

Recommended: Cutlets, eggs with toast, sandwiches

Ants

My Way Little Dinette, Ulsoor

The community that gave us dhansak, sali boti and berry pulav offers some interesting dishes for the first meal of the day too. Parsis love their eggs, mutton and pav, and can have these in any combination. Dishes like eggs on sali, eggs on kheema, akuri on toast and pattice are sure to set your pulse racing. Very flavoursome and aromatic, they are a feast for the eyes too, thanks to the tomatoes, coriander and other greens. Choose a seat by the window side at this bright, cheery restaurant and go to work on your food.
Recommended: Eggs on vegetables or meat

My Way

Kaayal, Jeevan Bima Nagar

If you wake up one day and find your tummy growling in Malayalam, head over to Kaayal. Every morning on weekends, this restaurant dishes up a Kerala breakfast. Binge on puttu, appam, idli, dosa and uppuma. For accompaniments, choose from kadala curry, stew, chammandi (the Kerala version of chutney) and sambar.
Standout dish: Appam and puttu, served with kadala curry or stew

Kaayal parotta egg curry 2

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