Travel and Places

7 hidden treasures of Delhi

Travel and Places

Delhi is perhaps the most storied of Indian cities. Much has been written about its conquests and rules, its masters and mistresses, the commingling of diverse influences to create the unique ‘Delhi’ culture and idiom. Still, the fact remains that even now, there are shades of the city that many tourists are not aware of.  Here are seven such. The next time you visit Delhi, try to indulge in these experiences. You will come away charmed!

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 Into the depths of time– Agrasen ki baoli (the step-well built by Agrasen)

North and West India has a rich history of step-wells, which are scientifically designed storage tanks for water. They were built in many kingdoms of medieval India. Agrasen ki baoli one is believed to have been first built by King Agrasen in the 14th century. Subsequent rulers enlarged the well.

It consists of 103 steps that lead down from the top. The steps keep getting narrower as you go down, until you reach the inky depths of the well. For several centuries, this step-well used to store rain water, which was then supplied to neighbouring areas.

The fact that the stepwell is surrounded by busy roads and modern skyscrapers lends it a schizophrenic air. This is likely to rub off on you, making you feel sandwiched between two different eras. For a structure that is seven centuries old, it is in good shape.

Agrasen ki Baoli is located in a narrow alley off Hailey Road, near Kasturba Gandhi Road in central Delhi.

 

 

  1. History on rails – The Rail Museum

The richest legacy left behind in India by the British is perhaps our railway system. The Rail Museum in New Delhi is a repository of some of the finest gems of that legacy. It showcases the best iron steeds that ever ran on rails in India during the British rule. In that sense, this museum is unique among all museums in India. A fascinating way of looking back at Colonial India.

You can ogle at various models of majestic Glasgow-made steam locomotives and the grand saloon cars of the Maharajas (what symbols of vanity!). The smart livery of the iron hulks and the names of the private railway companies they ran for (Rajputana Railway, Souther Mahratha Railway, Oudh and Rohilkund Railway) evoke a very different map of India indeed!

The museum also has an indoor gallery, with many other items and photos related to Indian railway history. A good way to lose yourself for half a day.

 

 

 

  1. Streetside blisss – Parathas at Moolchand

This is gastronomical heaven on the pavement. Delhi has always had a rich culture of street food, and Moolchand Parathewaala is one of the best symbols of that culture. This joint is actually a big cart parked on the pavement, with a few tables and stools laid out for guests. It gets its name from the famous Moolchand Hospital in South Delhi, opposite which it is located. Heavenly parathas with varied stuffings like mooli (radish), anda (egg), aloo (potato), gobhi (cauliflower), dal (lentils), pyaaz (onion) and mixed vegetables are served hot off the griddle, accompanied by the most yummy raita, chutneys, rajma and curd. The mandatory dollop of butter on the parathas will send you into orbit. Moolchand can be a great introduction for travelers to the foodscape of Delhi.

 

  1. Sunday book bazaar at Daryaganj 

Daryaganj is the walled part of Old Delhi, earlier known as Shahjahanabad (the city that Shahjahan, the Mughal ruler, built). Every Sunday morning, the pavements in this area are taken over by books and book lovers of all hues. This fifty year old book bazaar is an institution patronised by book-lover locals. Here, you will find books of every hue. From first folios of literary classics to the latest releases; from computer science text books to Nietzsche and Camus – you’ll find them all here. A great way to spend your Sunday morning. Afterwards, you can celebrate your rich pickings by lunching in one of the old eateries nearby.

 

  1. Theatre by the students of National School of Drama (NSD)

Delhi is the nerve-centre of Hindi and English theatre in India. And the NSD is largely responsible for helping Delhi earn this status. The institute is a crucible of rich acting talent. Throughout the year, it stages a wide range of stimulating plays, giving the audience a fascinating insight into the socio-cultural realities of India. Plays are staged in English and regional languages, though very few travellers to Delhi know about them. The plays are staged in the open air amphitheatre of NSD itself, apart from auditoria around the city. For more information, visit the institute’s website: www. http://nsd.gov.in/delhi/

  1. Shopping at Shankar Market 

Literally and figuratively, Shankar Market lies in the shadow of the hyped-up Connaught Place. This small, cozy market offers a mix of excellent Indian-style clothes, North Indian snacking joints and book shops. All at good bargains. Shankar Market lies close to the Barakhamba Station on the Metro line, and is a favoured destination of the more discerning shoppers.

 

 

  1. Qawwalis at Nizamuddin dargah

The Qawwali is a form of Sufi devotional music, dating back 700 years. Its hallmarks are the verve and abandon with which the musicians sing, transporting the listener to emotional heights. Qawwalis stress the love of Man for the Divine (or the oneness of Man with the Divine). The effect of the songs is amplified by the robust beats of percussion instruments like the dholak and tabla.      

The dargah (shrine) of the 13th century Sufi saint Nizamuddin Auliya vibrates to the notes of joyful Qawwali music every Thursday evening, making for a rousing experience. As the shadows lengthen, a group of sufi singers come together and invoke the Eternal. They are accompanied by harmonium and dhol players, who infuse the tunes with boisterous rhythm. And the crowd goes into raptures.

 

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Mangalore in 48 hours

Travel and Places

Situated on the West coast of India, just above Kerala, the small city of Mangalore offers the best of several worlds. Its undulating landscape makes it a hill town, with majestic views of the valley. Being at the confluence of the rivers Nethravathi and Gurupura, Mangalore boasts of a rich riverine ecosystem. Thanks to the Arabian Sea, several unspoilt beaches dot the coastline along the city.

Ibn Batuta’s Manjarur subsequently came under the rule of the Chalukyas, the Hoysalas and the Alupas, before becoming a Portuguese colony. After a brief period under Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan, the city was annexed by the British into their territory.

Mangalore gets its name from Mangaladevi, the Goddess of Welfare, in whose name there is an old temple. For a city with such a hoary past, Mangalore is fast becoming a ‘new age’ city. Today, it is a bustling centre of commerce and tourism. It offers the traveler a host of special experiences, drawing from the cultures of Dakshin Kannada and Kerala.

We take you on a quick 2-day tour plan for the city, sampling the city best attractions. Read on, book your tickets and go!

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Day One

St. Aloysius Chapel

This should probably be your first port of call in Mangalore. Built between 1885 and 1888, this chapel is attached to the famous St. Aloysius College. For me, the most arresting aspect of the church were the brilliant frescoes covering every inch of wall, ceiling and column space, and the oil canvases. Painted by the Italian Jesuit Antonio Moscheni, some of the frescoes depict the life and times of Jesus Christ. The friendly sexton will be happy to give you a short guided tour of the chapel. His narrative weaves romance into the story of the church and indeed, into that of Christ himself.

Mangaladevi Temple

Next, head to this 1000 year old temple dedicated to the patron Goddess of Mangalore. Mangaladevi is believed to be a form of Shakti. While the faithful flock to this temple seeking boons, others visit it to marvel at its sense of history and the architecture. Intricate carvings and sculptures make it an interesting place, even for those who are not religiously inclined. The temple has been built entire in stone.

Ideal Bakery

If you are looking for delicious trouble, head straight to Ideal Bakery. An old eatery that has become a cultural symbol of Mangalore, it is best-known for a quirky ice cream called “Gadbad” (which means “trouble” in Hindi). It has three outlets in the city today. Gadbad has dry fruits and nuts, layered with twin-flavoured ice cream. The whole thing is topped off with a jelly. Gadbad became a rage in no time, and continues to be so. Popular opinion has it that Ideal Bakery makes the best Gadbad in Dakshin Kannada. A lot of pretenders have emerged over the years, but Ideal is still the favoured destination for this delicious treat. Ask your hotel or a local to direct you to an outlet.

Ullal beach and dargah

Mangalore has many superb beaches in its vicinity. Ullal, 10 kms from Mangalore is one such. Unspoilt and devoid of tourists, the beach is a great place to wade into the water or sit on the sands in contemplation. Watch the fishermen draw in their catch at the end of a day’s toil and chat up with them. Build sand castles. Jog on the wet sand. And watch a glorious sunset.

Right next to the beach is a little-known dargah dedicated to Syed Mohammad Shareeful Madani, a saint who is supposed to have come to Ullal from Madeena. Settling down here, he dedicated his life to the service of the poor, thereby earning the eternal gratitude of the locals. The tomb in which his mortal remains are enshrined is peaceful and simple. Try to catch the qawwalis and sufi hymns in the evening. They make for an uplifting experience.

Yakshagana

Yakshagana (meaning song of the yakshas or demi–gods) is a fascinating combination of music, dance, drama and mime. Inspite of its rich history and cultural significance, it remains unknown to the majority of tourists. However, it is a major draw for the local populace. Performances usually start late in the evening or at night and go on till the wee hours. Since Yakshagana is conduced in the open, the fragrance of the night, the breeze, the music and the unfolding drama on stage, all make for a mesmerizing experience.

Your hotel will be happy to direct you to the nearest temple. It’s a great way to wind up the day. And usher in the next.

Day Two

Sultan Battery

Located at Boloor, this is where Tipu Sultan kept his ammunition (and hence the name “Battery”). At first glance, it looks like a section of a fortress, with the other parts missing. Built on the edge of the river Gurupura, it helped Tipu’s forces keep an eye out for invaders and fire at them from the vantage point. Doors lead to underground chambers where the ammunition was stored. Climb the steps and sit awhile at the top, taking in the quietly flowing Gurupura, the thick copse of greenery on the other bank of the river and the gentle breeze.

Cathedral of the Most Holy Rosary (commonly known as St. Rosario’s Cathedral).

Church records say that this is the oldest church in Karnataka and one of the oldest along the West Coast. Built by the Portuguese in 1568, it was reconstructed in 1910, retaining the original character and style of the building. A high domed ceiling, artwork along the walls, exquisite stained glass, quiet corridors and the candle-lit altar all make for a very spiritual and calm atmosphere. Away from the spotlight, this cathedral is a less-known relic of Mangalore’s Portuguese past.

Pilikula Nisarga Dhama

Legend has it that ages ago, tigers used to flock to a watering hole everyday in this area. And hence, the name Pilikula (“Pili” means tiger and ‘Kula’ means pond in Tulu). A man-made wildlife sanctuary of sorts, Pilikula houses lions, tigers, elephants, deer, bison and a whole range of reptiles and birds in a habitat similar to their natural habitat. Watch elephants bathe and lions stride majestically in their domain, and take in the beautiful birdsong. It is a delight to sit quietly and watch the animals go about their routine. You can easily spend hours here and lose track of time.

Pilikula has a small store that sells food products and artifacts made by the tribals residing in the area.

‘Mangalore tile’ factory

For several decades now, ‘Mangalore Tiles’ have been popular in the building industry. These elegant tiles lend a distinct charm to structures and have been used extensively in South India. The tile industry here is almost 140 years old. During its peak, factories used to manufacture close to 8-10 lakh tiles a day. The British loved these tiles, so much so that these tiles grace many colonial structures including the iconic Victoria Terminus railway station in Bombay.

A visit to a tile factory is sure to take you back in time. With declining demand, many factories have shut stop. This could be your last chance to see how these tiles are made, and get a first-hand sense of their charm.

Athree book store

To round up your trip to Mangalore, walk into Athree, a tiny bookstore tucked away near Jyothi Cinema. For books that give you an insight into local history, traditions, environment and culture, Athree is a great place. Browse through the wide range of books at leisure. Be sure to chat up with the owner of the store, a soft-spoken and erudite person. And carry away a book or two to cement your memories of a great trip!

Points to remember

  • Mangalore has a very good local bus service. Travelling by bus is a good way to rub shoulders with the locals and feel the pulse of the place. Autos are available in plenty. To book taxis, check with your hotel.
  • The best time to visit the city is from September to early March.
  • Mangalore abounds in greenery and natural beauty. Be sure to take your camera along!
  • Every place has its cultural sensitivities; please pay attention to them. It is better to avoid skirts, shorts and other skimpy clothes here.
  • When visiting Pilikula Nisarga Dhama, please maintain silence and allow the birds and animals to be in peace. Use your camera discreetly.

Don’t miss out on the delightful seafood and other local delicacies such as ‘neer dosa’, ‘kori roti’ and ‘kotte kadubu’.

 

 

 

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Into the depths of time: Agrasen ki baoli

Into the depths of time: Agrasen ki baoli

Blog, Travel and Places

 

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The auto turns off Hailey Road, and into a small lane lined with old buildings on one side and an older wall on the other. It stops at a small opening in the wall, which is meant to be the entrance. Curiosity heightened, I walk in, eyes scanning the high, curving wall around me. It looks pockmarked and weather-beaten. A red board announces the name of the place and a bit of its history. I ascend a few more steps, bend a little and go yonder through a short arch.

And find myself on the other side of time.

Over a startled minute, I take in the steps that go down a long way. I count nearly a 100 of them. Punctuating the steps at either end are walls marking the periphery of the structure. They are adorned with niches, arches, chambers and narrow passages. As they go down, the steps get progressively narrower and finally disappear into the inky depths. The atmosphere of the place grips me instantly.

I am at Agrasen ki baoli. Baolis or stepwells are well, wells with steps.  In the northern and western parts of India, they were a popular way of storing water in ancient and medieval times. These enormous wells were built to save up for the long, harsh summers when ground water levels ran very low. Also, because of the water and the shaded environs of such wells, people in the neighbourhood were kept cool during the blazing afternoons.

 

Maharaja Agrasen (also called ‘Ugrasen’), who built this particular stepwell, was a ruler of the Agrawal community of North India.
Most accounts trace this well back to the 14th or 15th century. For a structure that is seven centuries old, it is in good shape.
Around me, a few clumps of people – locals and tourists – are sitting on the steps. Some have sought refuge in the shade of a couple of trees along the fringe-wall. Some others are gazing at the stone work on the walls. I go down the steps, entering a few passageways and niches, before returning to the mouth of the well and sitting down. The mood is langorous.

I have a schizophrenic moment when I raise my eyes and spot the skyscrapers. I wonder anew at how this baoli lies in the midst of busy roads, offices and posh flats, and yet is hidden from sight and collective memory.

Agrasen ki baoli may be less than a kilometer from Connaught Place and Kasturba Gandhi Road in Central Delhi. And yet, it is far, far away. Really, a visit to this place is like a descent into the bowels of time.
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How to get there: The best way is to take a taxi or an auto. While some drivers know this place, others will need directions. Tell them to take you to Hailey Road, off Kasturba Gandhi Marg near Connaught Place. Agrasen ki Baoli is in a small lane off Hailey Road.

When should you visit? While the place is open from 9 am to 5 pm, it is better to avoid visiting in the harsh afternoons of summer. In winter though, you can visit any time of the day. The place gets crowded on weekends; so, weekdays are best.

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10 must-dos in Colombo

10 must-dos in Colombo

Travel and Places

Like every great city, Colombo connotes different things to different people. Ex-colony of Portugal and The Netherlands, bustling metropolis, commercial capital of Sri Lanka, beachside city….Colombo is actually many worlds rolled into one. A blend of heritage and modernity, the city is a good introduction to Sri Lanka. Here is a list of compelling experiences you should sample in this beautiful city.

Colombo National Museum

The true measure of a country can be had from a look at its past.  In other words, its history, evolution and heritage. And there’s no better way to do that, than by visiting a museum. The Colombo National Museum is the main centre of the National Museum – the other two being in Kandy and Anuradhapura. Housed in a very well-preserved building with sprawling lawns around it, the museum’s artifacts trace Lanka’s history right from the time of ancient Ceylon. Episodes of valour, intrigue, romance come alive in these artifacts, which have been maintained well. My favourite section is the one devoted to Ceylon’s maritime history, which is long and chequered.

You will need a half day to cover the museum in leisurely fashion, though a quick tour can be done in two hours. Try to avoid visiting it on holidays, since it gets really crowded.  A great way to get started in Colombo.

The bazaars of Fort and Pettah

The bazaars (old-world markets) of any city are true barometers of the city’s culture and way of life. Pulsing and throbbing with life, bazaars offer a peek into the city’s psyche and tell you what makes the city tick. So too with the bazaars of Colombo. Situated around the Fort and Pettah areas near the Colombo railway station, they provide an interesting counterpoint to the modern high-rises located close by. Shops and stalls of all hues and shapes can be found peddling a mind-boggling variety of wares. The nerve centre of Colombo, this district is best covered on foot. The main idea is not to buy something here (though you can, if you want to. There is a lot on sale here. Just bargain hard.), but just to stroll around taking in the palpable vibes. And while you are at it, sample some local delicacies from a small eatery.

Wolvendaal Church

Just a hop, skip and jump away from the Pettah area of Colombo, this church is roughly 260 years old. It was considered to be the crown jewel of the Dutch Reform Church in Ceylon. Built by the VOC (The United Dutch East India Company), the Wolvendaal Church has probably been getting better with age. The age of the building and the props and artifacts of the church combine to give Wolvendaal an unmatched sense of history and atmosphere. On a quiet day, you could get the sexton of the church or the priest to show you around the place, and if you are interested, open up on the history of the Dutch Reformed Church. I did. Some trivia – look for the initials ‘IVSVG’ on the south-east gable of the church. They stand for the name of the Dutch Governor who built it.

 Gangaramaya Temple

A much-venerated place of worship for the Buddhists and Hindus, it’s main attractions are the relics of The Buddha that are stored here, and the gallery of Buddhist art. An interesting twist in the tale is that the relics preserved here were originally found in Bangladesh. They were released by Bangladesh at the special request of the Lankan Government. The art gallery in the temple complex traces the evolution of Buddhist art and counts among its possessions, murals, frescoes and other paintings of Ceylonian temples of yore. The spotlights illuminating the pieces create a superb effect.

The lake in the temple complex is a great place to sit in quiet contemplation. Except on festival days, the temple is cloaked in the soft quilt of silence.

Mount Lavinia Hotel

If you accept a popular legend, you would be tempted to exclaim that Mount Lavinia Hotel is to Colombo what Taj Mahal is to India. Built by a British Governor of Ceylon in 1806, the sprawling mansion is rumoured to be dedicated to the lass who stole the Governor’s heart (and hence named after her). Seeing how beautiful the mansion (which is today a luxury heritage hotel) is, you can’t help wondering at the beauty of the woman who fired the imagination of the Governor. With polished wooden floors, paneling in mahogany and calamander, large windows that open on to the sea and white columns, the hotel reminds us that good architecture is great art. Stop by to explore the nooks and crannies of this beautiful building and wade into a scrumptious meal by the sea.

The Talangama Wetlands

Sri Lanka is known for its wildlife sanctuaries, but not much for marshlands and birding spots. The Talangama Wetlands are therefore, a revelation! Definitely not on the radar of most tourists, this lush green area is a completely uncharted territory. According to estimates of ornithologists, this area teems with about 100 species of birds. Apart from some species that permanently live there, a lot of migratory birds home in on these wetlands with unfailing regularity every year. The Talangama Wetlands are a short drive from the city of Colombo. Plan to spend a few leisurely hours here, looking beautiful winged creatures in the eye. And oh! Don’t forget to take that pair of binoculars and a nice picnic lunch along.

Isipathanaramaya Buddhist Temple

Another hidden gem, this. Even many of the locals do not know about it. A small Buddhist temple near the intersection of Havelock Road and Dickman’s Road in Colombo 5, this one takes you back in time. The original look and feel of the structure has been maintained; man’s wanton hand has been stayed. The temple complex houses a museum too, where richly carved antiques have been displayed.

Spa Ceylon

Washed out after scouring Colombo from end to end? Then, head straight to a 100 year old tea warehouse in Park Street Mews. However, instead of asking for some of Ceylon’s best tea, ask for a full body massage. Because, Spa Ceylon offers probably the best relaxation therapies in Colombo. This swank spa offers a wide range of massages and other therapies to shoo your aches away and lull you into a sense of well being.  A good time to visit would be at the end of your tour of Sri Lanka.

Galle Face Hotel

Galle Face Green is the single most popular stretch of open space in Colombo. Young couples, families with screaming kids and executives after a hard day’s work can be seen enjoying all that this stretch offers. Just where the stretch ends, stands the Galle Face Hotel, one of Colombo’s most famous heritage landmarks. Built in 1864 by the British, it is today a luxury hotel with a beach-fronting al-fresco restaurant. Dinner at this restaurant is a great way of letting your body and senses relax. Catch the last rays of the sun and sit down to enjoy a sumptuous spread. And live music, did you say? The sea beats a five-piece band hands down-any day!

Odel and House of Fashions

For long, Sri Lanka has been the production house of several leading apparel brands across the world. As a result, Colombo boasts of a few stores where one can find high-quality apparel for a song (and a few bucks, that is). By far, the largest of these is the House of Fashions on Duplication Road. This three-storied store offers great deals on clothing for men, women and kids. However, if you are looking for high-fashion apparel and luxury brands, then Odel is the place to head to. Odel has three stores in Colombo. Any self-respecting taxi driver will know all these stores; so, getting there won’t be a problem.

Retail therapy is the best way to end a holiday and spend all your remaining foreign currency, what say?

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