Kochi is a heady mix of many things. Go there to experience spice markets, churches, museums, palaces, backwater cruises and much more.
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Kochi can take you by surprise. Like a delicious biryani, this city is a burst of aromas, flavours and textures, all of which come together to leave you slightly light-headed. It draws its unique flavours and texture from its rich multi-colonial history, and from the fact that it was the seat of the kingdom of Kochi. It is also one of India’s oldest ports and spice trading hubs, and an emerging metropolis.
Day 1
In which you explore its overseas links
6 am – Chinese fishing nets
Start your day with a visit to the ancient Chinese fishing nets (known in Malayalam as Cheena Vala). These cantilevered fishing nets are permanent fixtures in the water and can be easily mistaken for huge hammocks. You can watch fishermen work these nets at daybreak. The sight of these bamboo-and-rope nets silhouetted against a lightening sky and slowly dipping into the water is mesmerizing. The best view of these nets are to be had from Vasco da Gama Square in Fort Kochi.
9 am – Breakfast at Mary’s Kitchen
Now, this one really is a hidden gem, unknown even to most locals. You can’t visit Kochi and not taste the native fare. So, head over to Mary’s Kitchen and choose from appams, puttu, kadala curry, egg curry, dosa and oddly enough, pancakes too. The food is home-cooked and fresh, since the eatery is just an extension of the family kitchen. One suspects that part of the taste comes from the love with which Mary and her husband Martin cook and serve.
10 am – Jew Town, synagogue and bazaar
Kochi’s connection with the Jews dates back to a thousand years ago. The first Jews landed on the shores of Cranganore (now known as Kodungallur) and over time, established a thriving community there and in Kochi. Over the years, the community has dwindled in number, with less than a hundred Jews remaining here today.
What has survived however is the synagogue, one of the few remaining relics of the city’s Jewish past. Known to the locals as the Paradesi synagogue (‘Paradesi’ means ‘foreigner’ in Malayalam), it has a poignant air about it. The chintz, chandeliers and tiling are well-preserved. One can imagine bar mitzvah and other functions being held here centuries ago.
While you are at it, drop into the Jewish Cemetery also, which has tombstones inscribed in Malayalam and Hebrew. The synagogue and cemetery are on Jew Street in Fort Kochi.
You can round off your visit to Jew Town by exploring the narrow bazaars which boast of excellent spices and antiquities. Take your pick from jewellery, wooden pillars, wooden and metal figurines and carved wooden furniture. Just remember to bargain hard on the prices.
1:00 pm – Browsing at Kashi Art Gallery and lunch at the cafe
Tasteful, quirky, colourful – Kashi Art Gallery symbolizes ‘native chic’. Located in an old house built in the traditional Kerala style on Burgher Street, it draws artists, designers and assorted ‘cool’ folks like a magnet. It has been exquisitely done up, and is home to a wonderful collection of paintings created by local artists. Buying a painting or two is a good way to support the local art talent.
Afterward, lunch at the in-house café. The place has lots of natural light, and an easy vibe about it that lets you dawdle over the excellent food. Kashi is best known for its Continental and British menu, and for its coffee.
2 pm – Mattancherry Dutch Palace
Though named after the Dutch, this palace was actually built by Portuguese colonizers of Kochi. It has been standing strong since the 16th century, when it was built and gifted to the local ruler Veera Kerala Varma. Later, it was expanded and strengthened by the Dutch. A stroll through this Fort gives you a fascinating lesson in the early Colonial history of Kochi.
In a style typical to Kerala, the building has a naalukettu (the building is wrapped around a central, open quandrangle) and flooring made of a peculiar mixture of burnt coconut shells, egg whites, lime and plant juices. Royal memorabilia, weapons, furniture and a number of maps, photos and other documents can be found here. The murals adorning the walls are simply beautiful.
4 pm – St. Francis Church
One of the oldest churches in India, St. Francis Church has managed to retain its ‘ancient’ air. Its tryst with history lies in the fact that this is where Vasco Da Gama’s body lay in repose after his death in 1524, until it was shifted to Portugal. Spend some time in quiet contemplation here and admire the old-world charms of the church – the pews, the wood carvings on the pulpit and the gabled roof.
6:30 pm – Sundowner and dinner at Seagull
How about drinks and dinner with a crashing sea, the coastline and seagulls for company? Seagull has an unbeatable atmosphere, because it juts out into the sea and is close to the docks. A great place for conversations, whether quiet or boisterous. Frequented by knowledgeable locals, this restaurant has acquired its own cult following. It serves a range of local delicacies, apart from beer and other spirits. Don’t forget to wave to the passing hulks as they hoot and head over to the harbor.
Day 2
In which you discover its native side
9 am – Breakfast at Woodland’s
A simple, tasty South Indian breakfast at Woodland’s is just what you need for the brisk day ahead. Try the super-soft idlis with chutney and scalding-hot sambar, the crisp uzhunnu vadas, pongal, upma or dosai. All of them are equally good. Wash them down with a cup of authentic filter coffee, sigh with pleasure and off you go!
10 am – Museum of Kerala History and Art
For a good overall introduction to Kerala, this is the place you should head to. One of the better museums in South India, this one has good tableaus depicting the various eras in the history of this tiny state. The accompanying audio narration is lucid and well-scripted. The art gallery housed in the same building displays many original works of contemporary Indian artists.
Tucked away in a quiet campus near the suburb of Edappally, this museum is definitely worth visiting.
12 noon – Vallarpadam Church
If you ask for the Basilica of Our Lady of Ransom, chances are that you’ll leave people gaping. But toss up the name ‘Vallarpadam Church’ instead and it will ring a bell. Built by the Dutch in 1676, this intriguingly named church stands on the quiet, beautiful island of Vallarpadam.
1 pm – Lunch at Hotel Grand
Hotel Grand is practically an institution in Ernakulam and is located on MG Road. It is one of those places that never grow old, but remain timeless. It serves perhaps the best traditional plated meal (or ‘meals’ as Malayalis are wont to call it) in town. Wade into the pappadams, erisseri, aviyal, puli-inji, sambar and other delicalies served in unlimited quantities. Order some lip-smacking fish or chicken curry as further accompaniment.
You are liable to be in a state of stupor after this langorously delicious meal, but if you can shake it off, head over to the next destination.
2:30 pm – Spice bazaar on Broadway
Having come to Kochi, you can’t go back without at least checking out the wide range of spices that the city is famous for. The spice-trading heritage of this city dates back to ancient times. Today, the nerve centre of this trade is Broadway, which, contrary to its name, is actually a narrow street close to St. Theresa’s College. As you step into it, the delightful aromas of spices hit you in whirling eddies. The spices are fresh and are available at relatively decent prices. So, take home a few packs of cardamom, cloves, nutmeg, pepper or whatever else you fancy.
4 pm – Boat ride on the sea
Time to catch a whiff of sea breeze. It will be a good idea to take a short cruise along the coastline of Kochi, for which the Ernakulam boat jetty is a good starting point. You could take a return ride on a ferry to one of the islands like Vypeen close by. On the way, you will pass barges and ships, and tiny islands with swaying palms and small houses. There is nothing like a boat ride to give you a feel of the sway and rhythm of life on an island.
6:30 pm – Ernakulathappan temple
The city of Kochi is actually an agglomeration of towns, the largest and most famous of which is Ernakulam. Located on the mainland, Ernakulam takes its name from this temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. For a long time, it was a royal temple of the Maharaja of Kochi. When you visit the temple at dusk, you can see it come aglow with several traditional lamps lit along the walls. The play of light and shadows is fascinating. Take in the Keralan temple architecture and the timeless rituals. Sit down for a bit and watch the seeveli (a ritual in which the idol is taken around the sanctum sanctorum everyday) and chenda vaadyam (a traditional Keralan percussion ensemble). Come away soothed and refreshed.
8:30 pm – Dinner
Wind down your 2 day tour of Kochi with a leisurely meal. Though the city has restaurants in every corner, some of the better ones are New Tandoor, The Rice Boat (at the Taj Malabar), Mosaic (Crowne Plaza) and Pizza Italia. For Malabari cuisine (food that is native to North Kerala), you can check out Thakkaram or Masafi in the Vytilla area.
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